At seven in the morning in Chengdu, a man in a white undershirt is already in his bamboo chair, lidded tea bowl beside him, mahjong tiles clicking. Three hundred kilometers east in Chongqing, a porter is hauling a refrigerator up a hillside staircase on a bamboo pole. Both cities share peppers, dialect, and mahjong —...Read More

At Liziba in Chongqing, phones are already up. A few hundred people crowd the viewing platform, all facing the same 19-storey apartment block — then a Line 2 monorail slides out of the eighth floor on rubber tires, almost silent, while laundry hangs on the balconies above. The crowd reacts the same way every time:...Read More

In 1718, the Qing court stationed a thousand soldiers in Chengdu [CHUNG-doo] and forbade them from doing any civilian work. So they drank tea, raised songbirds, and perfected doing nothing productive — and the garrison lanes now known as Kuanzhai Alley are where it all started. Kangxi Sent Soldiers. Chengdu Got a Lifestyle. The story...Read More

At 7:15 on a Wednesday morning, the crowd outside the South Gate is already three hundred deep. Parents wrestle strollers into position, selfie sticks telescope upward, and a child on someone’s shoulders shrieks the moment the first panda appears twenty metres away, chewing bamboo sideways with the focus of someone who could not care less...Read More